April Quilt Along Challenge

Hello!! Sharon here! You know it must be the first Monday of the month because we have a new quilt block tutorial ready for you. I hope you will be as excited for this month's block as you were for last month's block.  

In case you missed the announcement in January, I will give you a little recap. On the first Monday of each month, I will teach one quilt block pattern. You have until the last Monday of the month to sew your quilt block(s) and enter them into the album in our Facebook group, Whimsical Fabric & Me, and/or blog about your quilt blocks and link up your blog post in our link party (see below).

This months block is a Pinwheel block made only out of squares. I find them easy to sew and there are no angles to cut or sew. We will be sewing only straight lines, sewing our blocks together, cutting, resewing, cutting again, and sewing again. It's lots of fun!

This month's prize is a Sweetcakes Charm Bundle.

Prizes
Each block that you sew and enter into the Facebook Album, will count as one entry into our monthly drawing. If you make two blocks, that is two entries. Make four blocks, that is four entries, and so on and so on. There will be a prize drawing each month.

In addition to the prize giveaway on the Facebook group, we also have a monthly Link Up Party. Blog about your entry and link up your post and you will automatically be entered to win a second prize.

Note: You CAN enter both giveaways to increase your chances of winning!
 

Supply List:

*quilter mat

* rotary cutter

*quilter's ruler

*fabric marker

*your long scrap fabric pieces

1. First we will cut out our blocks. I have the block pictured above as a reference for what colors and size blocks we will need. To make this month's block you will need to make two blocks at the same time. 

To Make Two Quilt Blocks You Need:

(2) 3½" squares in a light color

(2) 3½" squares blocks in a dark color

(4) dark or light 3" square

(Note: I have more of the bigger size blocks pictured below. I got cutting happy.)

Cut all of these out using your quilter's mat and rotter cuter. 

2. Place your dark 3½" squares down with the right side up and your light colored 3½" squares right down so that the right sides are facing each other. (Again, you only need two of these total, as opposed to my four.) Mark the center of the square going from one corner to the opposite corner. I have a directional print on my blocks, so I turned mine a different direction for half.

3. Stitch to the left of the center line with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Without cutting off the first block continue to sew the second block in the same manner as the first. (This is why I had cut extra blocks, so I could sew them all at once.)

4. Flip the blocks over and sew at 1/4" allowance again on the other side of the center mark you made, like in step 3.

5. Take your quilt mat and rotary cutter and cut right down the center line to create two triangles. Repeat with the second block.

6. Press the seam to the dark color side of the block to create a square block of two colors. Repeat with the three other two colored squares you just made.

7. Trim off the small triangle piece to make a nice square block on each of the two color blocks you just made.

8. Place the 3" square over the triangle block with the right sides facing. Draw a line from corner to the opposite corner down the center making an X with the center seam of the two color block underneath. (Always check before you sew as well. Ask me how I know you should always double check this. Ha!)

This is the upper block pulled back at the center line that I drew so you can see the under block's placement better.

9. Sew down each side of the center mark with a 1/4" seam allowance as you did before in step 3 and 4. I have some over hang on my first blocks compared to the top block so here I trim it nice and even.

10. Using your quilting ruler and rotary cutter, cut down the center line making two triangle pieces again. Repeat with the rest of your blocks.

11. Press the seam towards the whole triangle side on each of your blocks.

12. Below is a picture of the blocks that you should have at this point. Separate them into two rows so that each row has the four matching blocks in it.  One row will have a light color small triangle on the top and the second row will have a dark colored small triangle on the top. It is important that these be separate to make the pinwheel blocks.

13. Choose only one of these two rows to work with on the next few steps. Place the four blocks in a pinwheel pattern just like the one pictured below. I find it very helpful to keep my blocks placed out in the correct order for the sewing steps.

14. Take the top row right block and fold it over the top left block.  Be careful that you keep the two centers of the the blocks together. Pin on the center side only (the right side in the picture below); sew with a 1/4" seam.

15. Repeat step 14 with the two bottom blocks; be sure that the center of the blocks stay together and are sewn.

16. Press the top seam towards right and the bottom seam towards left. This will help our blocks "lock" at the center seam when we sew than together on the next step so we have a nice centered point.

17. Now with your blocks laid out as the picture in step 15, fold over your top set of blocks so that they face right sides together, with the center of the blocks at the top.  Sew with the 1/4" seam allowance, then press your seam to one side.

18. Trim your block up nice and square. Then repeat with the steps 13-18 with your second block.

Your blocks will look something like this when you are done, two matching blocks that have the dark and light small blocks reversed. We now have fun pinwheel blocks! I find these very addictive to sew. I love to use them as table runners and coasters as well.

Facebook Group
After you have sewn all your blocks together for this month please go over to our Facebook Group and share each of your blocks in our April Quilt Along Album for a chance to be entered into our monthly drawing! You have until Monday, April 25 at 12:00 pm (noon) CT to enter your blocks.

Link Up Party
In addition, if you blog, write up a short blog post about your quilt-along block(s) and link up your post in our Link Up Party. The button is located below. In addition:

1. Grab the April graphic, share it in your blog post, and link it back to this post here to let all of your followers know you are partying with us.
2. Share about your blog post on all your favorite social media outlets.
Note: We will be sure to visit and comment on your blog. We love interacting with our followers!

Remember, there is no required amount that you need to make. Make as many or few as you would like.

Happy Sewing!
Sharon

An InLinkz Link-up

Sew-Along #32 - School Days Jacket - Lesson #3

The School Days Jacket by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S School Days Jacket pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

School Days Jacket PDF Pattern

School Days Jacket Fabric Kits

Welcome to Day 3

As we begin, both the laminate and woven coats will be sewn in the very same manner other than I use wonder clips on the laminate fabric (remember pins will leave holes) and I use straight pins on the woven. Be careful while sewing the laminate fabrics as even when seams can be ripped out the holes will remain in the same place. If for any reason a seam needs to be taken out be sure to sew right over or just to the left of it to prevent a line of holes in your rain coat. Also, do not press the laminate fabric as it will melt. A pressing ham is a great tool when sewing with laminates.  

You will need to read the pattern directions before you start today's lesson and will need them in hand to sew it as well. 

Today we will be finishing up the main side of our coats. So shall we get started?

1. Take your coat back and one coat front side piece and clip/pin it in place matching your side notches and right sides together at the coat sides and shoulders. Stitch with a 1/2" seam then press the seam towards the back of the coat. (Remember if you are using the laminate fabric to only finger press the seams and do not use a iron on it).

2. Top stitch the seams in place on the coat's back side. Repeat with the coat's opposite front and back side.

3. Take one of the main pocket pieces and one of the lining pocket pieces and place them right sides facing at the short un-notched side. Stitch them together. 

4. Trim the seam in about 1" on both sides as shown. This will help to reduce the bulk on the pocket after turning.

5. Fold the pocket over, matching up the notches at the bottom of the pocket. Clip/pin in place. Now to make it easier on me while sewing the pocket, I also add the 1/2" markings for the beginning and stopping points. I also bring them in 1/2" on each side of the notches on the laminated fabric due to it not being able to be pressed. (The pattern calls for the beginning and stopping points to be at the notches themselves.) I find it easier to keep the opening smaller for pressing and sewing the pocket on in the next step.  

6. Stitch around the pocket leaving the area between the notches un-sewn or with the laminated fabric like I said I bring the un-sewn area in about 1/2" on each side. Clip into the corners but do not clip into the stitching, and turn and finger press.

7. Top stitch 1" down from the top of the pocket all the way across. Repeat with second pocket.

8. For the pocket placement on the woven fabric I just transferred the dots from the pattern pieces, however on the laminated fabric as I said before it is harder to mark the placement, so I use the pattern pieces to measure where they should go.

I use scotch tape to hold the pockets in place while I am stitching them onto the coat.  I remove the tape right before I sew that area of the pocket.

This is the pocket all top stitched into place. I like to sew mine on with a 1/8" seam allowance. Repeat with second pocket.

9. The School Days coat has set in sleeves on it. This means that the sleeves are not gathered on the finished product however with the 1/2" seam allowance we will gather the top top of our sleeves to sew them onto the coat as not to have any puckers or pleats in it. On the laminate fabric it is very important not to sew two rows of gathers threads as well. This is because when we take our gathering threads out the holes will still be left in the top of the sleeve.  Instead we will only sew one row of gathering threads with a 1/3" seam allowance. Repeat with second sleeve.

10. Fold the sleeve in half with the right sides together, clip/pin the sides together and stitch. Trim the bottom part of the seam to reduce bulk and finger press the seam open.

11. Now measure the bottom of your sleeve and fold it down 1 1/2" to create a cuff. Finger press the laminate fabric and iron press the woven fabric. To hold the laminate fabric clip it in place to sew.

12. With the sleeve still wrong side out, sew with a 1" seam allowance all the way around the bottom of the sleeve. Placing tissue paper under the sleeve and between the sewing machine here is very helpful so that the sleeve does not stick to the sewing machine while being sewn. Repeat with second sleeve.

13. Now turn the coat inside out and the sleeves right side out. Take a sleeve, both sleeves are identical so it doesn't matter which sleeve you use,and place it inside the coat so that the coat and sleeve right sides are facing. Match the sleeves under arm seam to the coat's side seam and clip or pin in place. Next, match the all the notches on the sleeve to the notches on the coat and clip/pin in place. Gather your sleeve to fit the coat opening; it will only be slightly gathered as it is a set in sleeve. Stitch around with a 1/2" seam then check to make sure there are no puckers on the right side of the coat at the seam. If there is, unpick the area and straighten out the pucker and re-stitch just above the old stitching line to prevent to old stitching line with holes to be visible on the right side of your coat. Trim the seam down to a 1/4". Repeat with second sleeve.

Now our coats are starting to look like real coats! We will leave off here today and will be back tomorrow to sew the lining portion of the coat. I hope you are getting as excited as I am! (This is where I can't put my coat down because I am too excited to see it all sewn.) I can't wait to see everyone's coats in the Facebook Album!

Happy sewing,
Sharon 
www.whimsicalfabric.com

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Three to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, April 5th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask. 

Sew-Along #32 - School Days Jacket - Lesson #2

The School Days Jacket by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S School Days Jacket pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

School Days Jacket PDF Pattern

School Days Jacket Fabric Kits

Welcome to Day 2

For day 2 we will sewing together the hood, the front coat pieces together, and the back of the coat pieces together. I will show you some great tips along the way. Before we get started, one tip that might be useful is taking regular scotch tape and putting onto the bottom side of your presser foot where it meets the fabric while sewing. It will help the sticky laminate fabric glide through much better while sewing. So let's get started!

As we begin, both the laminate and woven coats will be sewn in the very same manner other than I use wonder clips on the laminate fabric (remember pins will leave holes) and I use straight pins on the woven. Be careful while sewing the laminate fabrics as even when seams can be ripped out the holes will remain in the same place. If for any reason a seam needs to be taken out be sure to sew right over or just to the left of it to prevent a line of holes in your rain coat. Also, do not press the laminate fabric as it will melt. A pressing ham is a great tool when sewing with laminates.  

You will need to read the pattern directions before you start today's lesson and will need them in hand to sew it as well. 

1. Take one of the hood's sides and the center hood piece, place then together with right sides facing. First match the notches together and clip/pin in place. The pieces are clearly marked front and back by one or two notches so you can make sure you have the front and back of the center hood in correctly. Clip/pin the hood in place then from the notches to both outer edges.

2. For the center part of the hood center pieces now looks like it is too small to fit, but it does and just right. To help ease it in properly we will cut some small notches into the fabric between both clips.

Now gently pull the two pieces together clipping as you go.

3. Sew the seam with a 1/2" seam allowance and then trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Finger press the seam to one side (if using a woven use your iron on this step) and then top stitch the seam into place. If you are sewing with laminate fabric I highly recommend sewing the top stitching on each step. The top stitching helps keep the seams looking tidy and the finished coat very professional. The top stitching does not make your coat leak, so don't worry. Repeat with the hood's opposite side piece.

Repeat with the hood's lining pieces but do not top stitch the seams.

4. Place the hood's lining over the hood's main with the right sides facing and matching up the seams. Clip/pin the front only of the hood. Stitch in place. Trim the seam and turn. Finger press the seam  while rolling the main fabric slightly to the lining side.

 5. Clip/pin the front seam in place and top stitch. I like to use a 1/8" seam on this part. I think this part is very important as it keeps the hood/lining in place very nicely.

6. Now clip/pin the bottom two hood pieces together (wrong sides facing) and baste together using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Set aside.

7. Now take the front yoke and front side panels and place them together with right sides facing. Stitch in place. (see next two photos)

8. Finger press the seam up, then top stitch the seam into place.

9. If using Velcro dots, take your front placket, right side. Now I cannot get my markings to stay on the laminated fabric, so for my laminated to get the right placing for my Velcro dots I measure the pattern piece and my right placket, then hold my dot on the fabric, and sew in place.  For the woven fabric I just transfer my marking with a fabric marker.

If you are using snaps wait till after to apply them.

Set these pieces aside.

10. Transfer the dots from the pattern pieces onto the wrong side of your tabs, and mark your buttonholes onto the right side of your tabs. (If using laminate fabric, just as before the marks will rub off, so I measure for buttonhole placement as well). Take your tabs and place them with right sides together. If using the laminate fabric do not use the interfacing on the button tabs. On your woven tabs only, fuse the interfacing onto the button tabs wrong side. 

11. Place two tab pieces together with right sides facing, stitch around three of the sides, pivoting at the dots on the short side, leaving the opposite short side un-stitched. Trim the seam allowance. Turn and finger press the laminate or press your woven tabs with a hot iron.  

12. Top stitch around the three sewn sides of the button tabs. If sewing with the laminate fabric place a piece of tissue paper under the tabs while sewing. This will keep the tabs from sticking to the sewing machine while being stitched. When done sewing, simply tear away the tissue paper. (Wait till after the buttonholes are stitched to tear the paper away though).

13. At this point we will stitch our buttonholes. For the laminate fabric, I measure where the buttonhole should sit and use my buttonhole foot to ensure each is sewn in the same place. Repeat with two more button tabs for a total of three button tabs with buttonholes on them. 

14. We will now take the wearer's left side of the coat front side panel and three of the button tabs with buttonholes on them and place them over the markings on the pattern pieces. The top tab will sit directly over the top yoke's seam line, the two remaining tabs will sit over the notches on the bottom of the front side panel. Baste in place.

15. Now take the left front center panel and place it with the right side together over the left front side panel. Clip/pin in place, then stitch together stopping at the bottom portion of the front center panel. Be sure to lock your stitches. Repeat with opposite front coat side. Finger press the seam towards the side panel and top stitch the seam into place.

16. We will now take our coat back yoke and back bodice pieces and place them right sides together, matching up the notches, and clip in place and stitch.

17. Finger press the seam up towards the top of the back yoke and top stitch the seam in place.

We will stop here for today and come back tomorrow to sew the sides, pockets, and sleeves.  

Happy sewing,
Sharon 
www.whimsicalfabric.com

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Two to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, April 4th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.