September Tutorial Tuesday #2 - Free Motion Applique Pillow

This month's Tutorial Tuesday is brought to you by Laura of Stitches by Laura.

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

I'm so excited to be sharing how I make pillow covers!

Supplies:
     • FMA Pattern by StitchART - (I used the Birthday Set) 
     • 3/4 yard Fabric Finders Chambray - (I used Grey)

     • 2 yards Jumbo 1.5" Riley Blake Ric-Rac - (I used White)
     • 1 Charm Pack
     • 1 Travel size pillow (14" x 20")
     • Scrap of quilt batting approx. 20" x 28"
     • Piece of other fabric for interlining approx. 20" x 28"
     • Fusible Web (Amount varies.)
     • Thread
     • Scissors
     • Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat
     • Safety pins

1. First, cut your chambray (background fabric) 14" x 20."  Yes, this is the size of the pillow, but we'll trim it down just a little after the free motion applique.

2. YOU are in charge of the appliques - I styled mine after my nephew's children, changing the scale as needed for the different ages. I also flipped the smallest one halfway through tracing so he would be holding both of his sisters' hands. Follow the directions in the pattern or use methods you are already familiar with for creating your masterpiece.

3. After you have your scene created, trim about 2" off each side so that it now measures 10" x 16".

4. Next, we are going to sew on the ric-rac. As shown in the pictures below, position the ric-rac so that half of it is hanging off the edge of your chambray. Pin in place on one side and sew using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.  Trim off excess.  Repeat for the remaining three sides.

5. Now it's time to trim off the overhanging ric-rac.  Yikes, sound scary?  Don't worry, it's not!  Turn your piece over so that the back is facing up.  Using a ruler and rotary cutter or scissors, very carefully cut along the edge of the chambray.  All four sides!

Now you have clean edges all the way around!!

6. Take the charm squares that you didn't cut and stack them up. (maybe 2 stacks!)  Again, using a rotary cutter or scissors cut these in half so that they measure 2 1/2" x 5."
Also cut pieces the same size from the chambray and fabric you used for appliques.
I have a few pieces that are 2 1/2" squares because that's what I could get from the leftover applique fabrics.

7. On to the borders! Lay your appliqued piece on the table and surround it with the strips you just cut.  Keep moving them around until you are pleased with the layout, or go with a random selection like I did (except for the two pieces that were directional). These don't have to be exact, but need to be at least as long as each side!

8. Take your mini strips from one side and sew them all together to form a longer strip that is at least as long as your first side.  Pin to one edge of your appliqued fabric (right sides together), covering the ric-rac and matching raw edges.  Sew this seam, then press open.

See how mine is a little longer at the top edge? 
That's okay, just trim it off straight and even with your rotary cutter!

9. Repeat with the other three sides, remembering to trim as needed and don't forget to press!!

10. After it's all trimmed up nice and straight, we'll get started with the quilting process.  We need to make a quilt sandwich, as shown in the picture below.  The piece we've been working on will be the top layer, the middle will be the quilt batting, and the bottom will be the plain fabric.  I didn't use the chambray for this layer because it won't be seen later, but you can if you want.

11. Using safety pins, secure all three layers together (This is a small piece and doesn't need tons of pins.), then take it to your machine and free motion quilt however you would like to!  I did very sparse "meandering" lines  in the center and stitched on or very near the seam lines in the border.

12. After quilting, remove the safety pins and clip any threads you see hanging about.

13. It's time to measure our mini-quilt.  If your "pretty" top measures 14" x 20"  all you need to do is trim off the batting and backing fabric so that it is even with the top piece.  If your top piece measures a little larger than you need, trim off around all of the edges until it measures the same as your pillow.

14. Cut two pieces of chambray measuring 14" x 27" each.  Fold each piece in half, short sides meeting.  Press, then sew a line about 3/4 inch from the folded edge.  These will form the back of the pillow case/cover.

15. Place the front piece on the table, right side facing up.  Place one of your back pieces on top of the front piece matching raw edges--folded end will be near the center of the top piece.  Pin in place.

16. Repeat with other back piece.  Now it's time to sew all the way around the pillow cover. (We will turn it out through the overlapping back pieces.)  If you plan on washing this later on, it's a good idea to finish the seams either with a zig-zag stitch or using a serger. (I opted for the serger.)

Stitched and serged. You can see where the pieces overlap, right?

17. Turn right side out where the back pieces overlap and give it a good press.

All done!  Insert pillow form and sit back and admire all of your hard work!

Thank you for the great tutorial Laura! To check out more of Laura's creations take a peek at her blog, Stitches by Laura.

And don't forget that this week all precuts (charm packs, layer cakes, jelly rolls, fat eighth, and fat quarter bundles) are 20% off. The sale ends at 11:59pm MT, Friday, 9/16/16.
 
Happy Creating!
Danielle Storm
www.whimsicalfabric.com

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #9

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Sailboat PDF Pattern

Sailboat Fabric Kits

Welcome to Day 9

Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today is the last day of our sew long and the most exciting as we finish up our outfits!! This is always my favorite day as I get to see everyone's finished garments. Some of the methods I will be using are not in the pattern, such as the lining and some of the finishing techniques so if you have any questions along the way please don't hesitate to ask. Ready? Let's start! 

1. First we are going to make the casing for the elastic. Turn your skirts inside out first. Press the back under a 1/2" then again 1" again. This is where the top notch is at on the back side of the skirt. It will help you to measure the distance down for pressing.

2. Stitch the fold in place.

3. Measure and cut your elastic according to the pattern chart, then insert your elastic into the back casing. Now stitch your elastic in place. I am going to show a little trick that I do for all my back only elastic shorts/skirts.  I move the inside of the elastic casing edge out of the way (You can pin it if you would like) and then stitch the elastic in place right over the side seam, or "stitch in the ditch," on both sides.
Outside view.

 Inside view.

4.  From the inside, tuck the elastic into the casing.

5. Then simply hand stitch the casing closed.

6. To make your hem, press the bottom raw edge up a 1/2" then again another 1". Pin in place then stitch around. Take your time on the kick plate part to get a nice even hem. 

7. After you stitch your hem press the hem again, taking care to press the back kick plate in place.

8. Stay stitch the kick plate in place from the wrong side, down a 1/2" from the top edge of the kick plate.

This is the back view, a nice professional looking skirt.

The very last step? Try it on your daughter, granddaughter, or any little girl in your life and admire all your hard work!!

Happy sewing,

Sharon 

www.whimsicalfabric.com

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Nine to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, September 13th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #8

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Sailboat PDF Pattern

Sailboat Fabric Kits

Welcome to Day 8

Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today we will continue with our skirts. Some of the methods I will be using are not in the pattern,such as the lining and some of the finishing techniques so if you have any questions along the way please don't hesitate to ask. Ready? Let's start! 

 1. Finish the side raw edges of the front skirt on both sides. Be careful not to trim any of the fabric away.

2. For the lined version only, place the main back skirt and lining skirt together with right sides together.

3. Add interfacing 1" squares to bottom of the open part as directed in the pattern. Transfer the pattern markings onto the back skirt piece.

4. Pin in place and baste these two pieces together. Treat as one piece from here on out.

5. A. Finish the raw side and center edges on the skirt.

B. I used my serger on mine.To make a nice corner on the center part, first pull your center straight like pictured below. Serge it as if it was one long straight piece and not a rectangle shape. When finished with your serge part, place the skirt piece back as cut out and press well. Prefectly serged corners!

6. Fold the back skirt with right sides facing at the back center. Pin the center together above the kick plate.

7. Start stitching at the top and stitch down to the dot you transferred earlier and stop.  Lock your stitches at the dot.

8. Fold your skirt piece back open again and press the seam and the kick plate well.

9. Now place your skirt back with the right side facing up, then place the skirt front on top of it with the wrong side facing up. This will leave the skirt front and back with the right sides facing. Match the top of the skirt front to the second notch down on the back skirt. Pin the sides together. Repeat with opposite side. Stitch both sides of your skirt.

 

10. Now take your skirt in hand and open up the side seam at the front side panel.

11. Cut the seam only on the side front panel to the the stitching but not through the stitching, leaving the seam on the back side untouched. The photo below shows the seam cut.

12. Press your side seam open but have the front panel seam pressed towards the back of the skirt. Don't worry about this raw edge on the cut, we are going to tidy this up on the next step. This tip I learned from my good friend Nicole, and I always use it on this pattern.

13. With the skirt facing the wrong side out we are going to sew a bar-tack right over open seam where it was cut. (Through both the uncut and cut side of the seam for a nice uniform look from the outside.) Use either a bar-tack stitch or a narrow zig-zag stitch to sew your bar-tack in place.

14. This is what it will look like from the inside of the skirt.

This is the outside view of the bar-tack. I love how this finished the raw edge and looks so nice from both the inside and outside. Repeat with opposite side seam.

This will be were we are going to leave off for today, please come back tomorrow as we finish up our skirts! I hope you are excited as I am! 

Let us know if you have any questions for today's lesson either here or in the Facebook group. Also be sure to add a photo of today's lesson in our Facebook sew along album. I will see you lovely ladies back here tomorrow as we finish up!

Happy sewing,

Sharon 

www.whimsicalfabric.com

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Eight to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, September 12th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #7

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Sailboat PDF Pattern

Sailboat Fabric Kits

Welcome to Day 7

Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern. but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today we will be starting our skirts. Some of the methods I will be using are not in the pattern, such as the lining and some of the finishing techniques so if you have any questions along the way please don't hesitate to ask. Ready? Let's start! 

1. Take two of your front side panels and fuse the interfacing onto the wrong side. If you are using a heavier fabric be sure to trim a 1/2" all the way around on your interfacing pieces. For light weight fabric I prefer to leave it the same size. (That's just my preference though.) Now transfer your pattern markings onto your fabric pieces. The button placement onto the front and the dot for pivoting onto the back side.

2. Place your mirrored image front side panel with right sides facing to the interfaced piece. Pin and stitch the curved side and top side only leaving the side open.

3. Trim your seam allowance and clip the corner, turn and press. Top stitch on the sewn edges only. Repeat with second front side panel.

4. Add interfacing to your front facing; transfer your pattern markings onto the wrong side.

5. Finish the bottom curved raw edge, being careful not to trim any of the fabric away.

6. Transfer the pattern markings for the buttonholes onto the front side of the skirt.

7. If you are lining your skirt, place the skirt lining and skirt front together with wrong sides facing. Baste the two pieces together all the way around. You will treat the lining and front as one piece.

8. Now take your front facing piece and place it over the skirt front with the right sides together, pin along the top edge.

9. Stitch around, trim your seam, and clip the corners.  Turn and press well.

10. Top stitch the sewn area with a 1/8" seam.

11. Stitch your buttonholes in the marked areas.
Front view.

Back view.

12. Take your front side panels and match the notch on the panel to the top side of the skirt, pin in place.

13. Baste the side front panel in place on each side, with a 1/3" seam allowance.

I will see you lovely ladies back here tomorrow as we continue our skirts!

Happy sewing,

Sharon 

www.whimsicalfabric.com

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Seven to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Friday, September 9th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.