The School Days Jacket by Oliver+S
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You can find the Oliver + S School Days Jacket pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:
Welcome to Day 2
For day 2 we will sewing together the hood, the front coat pieces together, and the back of the coat pieces together. I will show you some great tips along the way. Before we get started, one tip that might be useful is taking regular scotch tape and putting onto the bottom side of your presser foot where it meets the fabric while sewing. It will help the sticky laminate fabric glide through much better while sewing. So let's get started!
As we begin, both the laminate and woven coats will be sewn in the very same manner other than I use wonder clips on the laminate fabric (remember pins will leave holes) and I use straight pins on the woven. Be careful while sewing the laminate fabrics as even when seams can be ripped out the holes will remain in the same place. If for any reason a seam needs to be taken out be sure to sew right over or just to the left of it to prevent a line of holes in your rain coat. Also, do not press the laminate fabric as it will melt. A pressing ham is a great tool when sewing with laminates.
You will need to read the pattern directions before you start today's lesson and will need them in hand to sew it as well.
1. Take one of the hood's sides and the center hood piece, place then together with right sides facing. First match the notches together and clip/pin in place. The pieces are clearly marked front and back by one or two notches so you can make sure you have the front and back of the center hood in correctly. Clip/pin the hood in place then from the notches to both outer edges.
2. For the center part of the hood center pieces now looks like it is too small to fit, but it does and just right. To help ease it in properly we will cut some small notches into the fabric between both clips.
Now gently pull the two pieces together clipping as you go.
3. Sew the seam with a 1/2" seam allowance and then trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Finger press the seam to one side (if using a woven use your iron on this step) and then top stitch the seam into place. If you are sewing with laminate fabric I highly recommend sewing the top stitching on each step. The top stitching helps keep the seams looking tidy and the finished coat very professional. The top stitching does not make your coat leak, so don't worry. Repeat with the hood's opposite side piece.
Repeat with the hood's lining pieces but do not top stitch the seams.
4. Place the hood's lining over the hood's main with the right sides facing and matching up the seams. Clip/pin the front only of the hood. Stitch in place. Trim the seam and turn. Finger press the seam while rolling the main fabric slightly to the lining side.
5. Clip/pin the front seam in place and top stitch. I like to use a 1/8" seam on this part. I think this part is very important as it keeps the hood/lining in place very nicely.
6. Now clip/pin the bottom two hood pieces together (wrong sides facing) and baste together using a 1/4" seam allowance. Set aside.
7. Now take the front yoke and front side panels and place them together with right sides facing. Stitch in place. (see next two photos)
8. Finger press the seam up, then top stitch the seam into place.
9. If using Velcro dots, take your front placket, right side. Now I cannot get my markings to stay on the laminated fabric, so for my laminated to get the right placing for my Velcro dots I measure the pattern piece and my right placket, then hold my dot on the fabric, and sew in place. For the woven fabric I just transfer my marking with a fabric marker.
If you are using snaps wait till after to apply them.
Set these pieces aside.
10. Transfer the dots from the pattern pieces onto the wrong side of your tabs, and mark your buttonholes onto the right side of your tabs. (If using laminate fabric, just as before the marks will rub off, so I measure for buttonhole placement as well). Take your tabs and place them with right sides together. If using the laminate fabric do not use the interfacing on the button tabs. On your woven tabs only, fuse the interfacing onto the button tabs wrong side.
11. Place two tab pieces together with right sides facing, stitch around three of the sides, pivoting at the dots on the short side, leaving the opposite short side un-stitched. Trim the seam allowance. Turn and finger press the laminate or press your woven tabs with a hot iron.
12. Top stitch around the three sewn sides of the button tabs. If sewing with the laminate fabric place a piece of tissue paper under the tabs while sewing. This will keep the tabs from sticking to the sewing machine while being stitched. When done sewing, simply tear away the tissue paper. (Wait till after the buttonholes are stitched to tear the paper away though).
13. At this point we will stitch our buttonholes. For the laminate fabric, I measure where the buttonhole should sit and use my buttonhole foot to ensure each is sewn in the same place. Repeat with two more button tabs for a total of three button tabs with buttonholes on them.
14. We will now take the wearer's left side of the coat front side panel and three of the button tabs with buttonholes on them and place them over the markings on the pattern pieces. The top tab will sit directly over the top yoke's seam line, the two remaining tabs will sit over the notches on the bottom of the front side panel. Baste in place.
15. Now take the left front center panel and place it with the right side together over the left front side panel. Clip/pin in place, then stitch together stopping at the bottom portion of the front center panel. Be sure to lock your stitches. Repeat with opposite front coat side. Finger press the seam towards the side panel and top stitch the seam into place.
16. We will now take our coat back yoke and back bodice pieces and place them right sides together, matching up the notches, and clip in place and stitch.
17. Finger press the seam up towards the top of the back yoke and top stitch the seam in place.
We will stop here for today and come back tomorrow to sew the sides, pockets, and sleeves.