Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Sew-Along #32 - School Days Jacket - Lesson #1

The School Days Jacket by Oliver+S

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You can find the Oliver + S School Days Jacket pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 1

Today we will be cutting out our coats, for those of us are using laminated fabric I will show you a few ways to cut out your pattern pieces. The laminated fabric cannot recover after it is pierced with a needle, so we have to be very careful where we put them.  I will cover this a bit later down in today's lesson. You will need to read the pattern directions before you start today's lesson and will need them in hand to sew it as well. So let us get started with our coat lining!

For all of the kits, the coat linings are a woven fabric, so we cut these out the same way. For a PDF pattern, I like to print and cut each size that I need, so no tracing is needed. I find this easier for me, but you can trace off the size you need as well; do what works best for you.

Lay the pattern out according to the pattern's layout guide. When cutting out the pattern pieces be sure to cut all of the notches out. These notches will help us to line everything up just right as we sew our coats together.

Also please note on the sleeve lining, It needs to be 1" shorter than the main sleeve. To do this I measure up 1" from the bottom of my sleeve pattern piece and fold it up to give me the correct sleeve lining length. Then pin the pattern piece as normal.
For the coat lining you need:
2 sleeves
2 outer hood pieces
1 center hood piece
1 coat back cut on fold
2 front coat sides lining
2 pocket lining

Now onto cutting out our main coats. If you are using a regular woven fabric, continue as normal.  I will be showing you two different ways of cutting out the laminated fabric.

Method #1: Use a pattern weight. It doesn't have to be fancy, but anything that will keep your pattern piece in place for cutting out your fabric.  I use heavy coins for mine. Just cut around the pattern pieces as the pattern weights hold the pattern pieces in place. This is a great time to use your quilting ruler and mat to cut these pieces out.  Two pattern pieces need to be cut on the fold; I did fold my fabric in half but do not crease the fabric while it is folded. If you do, it will give your fabric a permanent crease. Mine is gently folded. Also, do not lay your fabric out with it folded in half until you are ready to cut out your pattern pieces.

 I cut out my two pattern pieces that are on the fold first then lay them out flat as not to cause a crease in them. Be sure to cut out the all the notches on these pieces as well.

Method #2: Using Straight pins. The next way of cutting your pattern pieces out is using your straight pins. This pattern has a 1/2" seam allowance so we can pin the pattern pieces in place as long as we pin within the 1/2" seam allowance. Try to keep the pins at a 1/4" from the pattern piece's edge. This will give plenty of clearance so there will be no pin marks on your pattern pieces.

Lastly, for the button tabs I used my good old quilting mat and rotary cutter. I find it easier and faster to cut them out this way. I did the same for the denim kit as well.

For the Coat Main you need:
2 sleeves
2 pockets
2 hood side pieces
1 center hood piece
1 back yoke on fold
1 back bodice on fold
2 front side pieces
2 front center pieces
2  facing pieces

This is where we will stop for today. Tomorrow we will start on the coat hood and outside. I will show you some great tips on sewing the laminated fabric as well. If you have never sewn with it, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how fun it is to work with!

Happy cutting,

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson One to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Friday, April 1st. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask. 

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