Monday, April 4, 2016

Sew-Along #32 - School Days Jacket - Lesson #4

The School Days Jacket by Oliver+S

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You can find the Oliver + S School Days Jacket pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 4

As we begin, both the laminate and woven coats will be sewn in the very same manner other than I use wonder clips on the laminate fabric (remember pins will leave holes) and I use straight pins on the woven. Be careful while sewing the laminate fabrics as even when seams can be ripped out the holes will remain in the same place. If for any reason a seam needs to be taken out be sure to sew right over or just to the left of it to prevent a line of holes in your rain coatAlso, do not press the laminate fabric as it will melt. A pressing ham is a great tool when sewing with laminates.  

You will need to read the pattern directions before you start today's lesson and will need them in hand to sew it as well.  

Today we will sew the lining and sew the main coat to the lining coat.

1. Take the wearer's left side of the inside facing a piece and sew on the soft side of your Velcro dots. Just as before with my laminated fabric I measured the pattern piece and the fabric piece for placement but on my woven coat I transferred the dots from the pattern pieces onto my fabric piece.

2. On the woven fabric coats only, Take both your front facing pieces in hand. 

At the bottom notch, finish the raw edge from the notch down to the bottom edge of the piece. I do this with a narrow zig-zag stitch.

3. Now we will take our lining piece and clip/pin it to the front facing. They both have a curve, so we will have to do some clipping on the front facing piece to make them fit better for sewing. Transfer all the pattern piece markings onto the wrong side of both pattern pieces. Since you cannot wash the laminated fabric I recommend a disappearing fabric marker to mark these dots.

Clip or pin the two pieces together up to the curve portion and above it. Next clip into the front facing portion between the wonder clips. As of right now it looks like the front lining piece is shorter than the front facing piece; the clipping into the curved portion will help us ease the two pieces to fit perfectly together.

4. Finish clipping/pinning the two pieces together. Stitch together starting at the top and stopping at the dot transferred from the pattern piece a few inches up from the bottom. Be sure to lock your stitches well.

5. Carefully press the cotton lining part only on the bottom of the laminated coat; be sure to not press any of the laminated fabric at all.  On the woven coat press the whole seam.

This is what the whole piece will look like now.

6. Take your coat back lining piece and fold it in half with right sides facing. Baste the center fold together with a 1/2" seam all they way down. Be sure to sew with a long stitch length to make removing the stitching easier later on.

7. Press the center pleat to one side. Either side will work and it doesn't make a difference.

8. Take your lining back and lining front pieces; place them with right sides facing and clip/pin at the sides and shoulders. Stitch then press the seam open. Remember do not use an iron on the laminated fabric. 

9. Take your sleeve lining piece and sew a gathering stitch at the top between the notches just as you did with the main sleeve pieces. Again fold the sleeves in half with right sides facing and sew the side of the sleeves just as before with the main sleeves. Fold and press the bottom of the sleeve up 1/2". Do not stitch this. 

10. Attach the sleeve linings in the very same manner as the main coat's sleeves. This is what your coat lining should like at this point. (I will tell you ladies that I love the way the coat facing looks here and one day I will sew a coat for the lining to be the main side. I have planned to do this for years now.... )

11. Now take your coat lining and press the bottom of the cotton portion onlynot the front facing, press it up a 1/2" 

12. Next take your hood and match up the notches to the main coats notches and seams, clip/pin in place. baste the hood onto the coat with a 1/4" seam.

13. Now for the exciting part! We will sew our coat main to our coat lining. Match up the top of the coat and the all the notches on the coat's two sides and top on the main coat and lining pieces with the right sides facing. Clip or pin in place. 

14. We will start sewing at the bottom of the coat where the wooden chopstick is pointed.  You will sew around in one continuous line until you reach the opposite side of the coat.  Notice that you will be stitching a portion of the coat main to make a nice "pocket" for turning the coat to the main side. Trim your seam allowance to a 1/4" then turn and pull the sleeve main and lining together. Finger press your laminated coat and press your woven coats.

15. In the pattern instructions it calls for the sleeves to be hand stitched at this point. I save all my hand stitching for last to be done at the same time. Take your main coat bottom and finger press up the bottom hem 1 1/2" and clip it in place. (If using a woven fabric press the bottom with a hot iron and pin place.) Do not stitch this just yet. We will take care of that in tomorrow's lesson.

We are finished for today; our coats are really taking shape and are almost done! I hope you ladies are excited as I am!!

Happy sewing,

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Four to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, April 6th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask. 

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