Friday, March 13, 2015

Sew-Along #22 - Art Museum Vest and Trousers - Lesson #5

The Art Museum Vest and Trousers by Oliver+S

Are you ready to make some killer pants!?!?!??!  These are awesome, you are going to want to make them in ever color under the sun - I'm making green next, or red, or pink (yes I want pink pants for my boys!!!!)
NOTE: Please make sure you read over the Art Museum pattern directions prior to starting this sew-along.  You should keep these directions open and where you can read them as you go through these lessons. You might want to carefully read through this lesson also before beginning.
If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them to enlarge. 

Ok, are you ready for some pants?

*I am using jean thread for my pants - for one thing it matched the color, and for the other this is a stronger thread with some give, so I know that it will help my seams stay strong and last through hard play and many washings.

1. Start by taking both of your pant backs - make sure you have transferred both the dart markings and the welt pocket dots to the pants.

2. Start by sewing your dart. Fold the fabric right sides together with the dots of the dart matching, pin. Place a pin at the top of the dart and sew from the top of the dart down to the bottom in a straight line - if you are new, feel free to draw that line prior to sewing.

3. Press the dart toward the center seam first from the wrong side, then flip your fabric over and press again for a clean finish (use spray starch as needed)

Welt Pockets:
Time to tackle those pockets - you've got this, you've already done it!!!!!

1. If you didn't fuse the welt pocket interfacing earlier, do so now. Also make sure that all your markings have been transferred.

2. There should be interfacing on both the welt pocket and on the pants where the welt will be sewn - this is going to allow you to get a nice crisp welt opening.  

3. On the welt pocket, connect the dots of the marking with a straight line along the top and a straight line along the bottom.
4. Place the welt pocket on the pants, right sides together,  

5. Pin in place.

6. Sew along the straight lines - you want to make sure to start and stop exactly at the dots on each line.  To make this easier, I like to lower my needle down right in the center of the dot and then start sewing (I sew a couple stitches forward and then back tack).

7. Once your lines are sewn, you will want to draw a straight line down the center of the space between the two lines.  

8. You will draw a V in to the center line on each end.
9. Cut along these lines, cut all the way to the stitching, but not through it.
10. Turn your welt pocket through the opening and to the wrong side of the pants.

11. You are going to want to pull the fabric taught to create crisp edges around the welt opening.  

12. Press first from the wrong side, then flip to the right side and press carefully - you will probably need to pull  the fabric in the corners to make them lay flat.  

13. Press well with lots of steam and spray starch to set the folds.  

14. From the wrong side, fold your fabric up until the fabric folds exactly at the top of the welt opening, press well.

15. To set the pocket folds, you are going to sew along the ends where the triangles are - set your needle down at the top of the crease and sew down, repeat for the other side.

16. Now that you have the welt opening, you are going to make the pocket - I'm going to diverge from the pattern slightly.

17. Sew the bottom edge of the pocket bag to the bottom edge of the welt pocket, right sides together. You are going to want to finish all of these edges with a serger or zig zag stitch.

18. Open the fabric and press the seam flat.

19. Fold the pocket bag back to match the top of the welt pocket and sew in place.
20. Press the fold.

21. Sew both sides of the pocket bag.

22. Repeat for the Other side

We're going to do one more set of pockets before we are done for the day - these are simple in comparison, you've got this!!

Front Pockets:
1. Transfer your dots to your pants and pocket pieces.

2. Line up the diagonal of your front Pocket with the diagonal of your front pants piece - make sure your fabric is RIGHT sides together.

3. Pin in place.  

4. Sew along the pocket from edge to marking with a 1/2" SA, back stitching at each end.

5. Cut your SA to 1/4".  

6. Clip to the dot.

7. Press your seam allowance away from the Pocket.

8. Flip the fabric so that your pieces are now WRONG sides together and press the seam of the pocket.

9. Top Stitch along the pocket edge (you do not have to do this, but I think it keeps pockets clean).

10. You can add an 2nd line of top stitching 1/4" in from the edge.  

11. Fold your Pocket in half, RIGHT sides together (you want to match the edges and your notches). Press well.

12. Stitch along the bottom edge of your pocket and finish the seam.

13. Using a basting stitch, secure your pocket to the front piece along the top edge and side below the curve.  

14. Repeat for the other side. 
There we go - lots of pockets..... come back Monday for the next lesson and to see these look more like pants!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson five to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, March 17th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.


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