Thursday, March 26, 2015

Sew-Along #23 - Addison and Addison Mini Dress - Lesson #3

The Addison and Addison Mini Dresses by Modkid

Welcome to day 3 of the Addison dress sew-along! Today we will finish up the girl's dress by adding the sleeve cuffs and sewing the beautiful double layer skirts.

NOTE: Please sure to read through today's lesson in the pattern before begins as well.  This girls dress also is sewn with a 1/2" seam allowance.

If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook Group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them to enlarge. 

Sewing the Sleeve Cuffs:

1. Fold the cuff over, with right sides together, matching up the two short ends to make a circle. Pin and stitch.

2. Press the seam open. Then, fold the cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together meeting up the raw edges. 

3. Turn dress right side out and the cuff inside out. Gather the sleeve to fit the cuff and slip the cuff over the sleeve matching the cuff seam to the under arm sleeve seam. (Make sure that the sleeve raw edges are matching the cuff's raw edge as well.) Pin in place well. 

4. To sew the cuff to the sleeve (this is great for sewing wee sizes as well) start by stitching on the inside of the sleeve. This makes it easier to turn the sleeve around to sew.

5. Finish seam and press the cuff with the seam facing the sleeve. Repeat with other sleeve cuff.

Sewing the Skirt Tabs:

1. Take the two front sides of the tabs and place them with right sides facing down. Take the interfacing and place it with the shiny side down, and fuse on by pressing with hot, dry iron. 

2. Place the front tabs with right sides together on the back side of the tabs, pin in place and stitch. 

3. Trim the seam around the tab and clip into the curve, turn and press. Top stitch around. Repeat with second tab. 

4. Take your front outer skirt and place wrong side up. (This is the 1" shorter skirt.)  Place both tabs meeting the lines you transferred form the pattern with the curve facing the top of the skirt. Pin in place and them stitch 1/2" from raw edge. 

5. Flip the tabs down. Press both tabs with the round part facing down on the skirt, pin, then stitch again a 1/2" from the fold. 

Sewing the Skirts:

1. Place the front over skirt with the back over skirt, right sides together and pin along skirt sides. Stitch sides, then finish the seams. Press the seam open or to the back if you are using a serger to finish the seams. Repeat with under skirt. 

2. Take the over skirt and press the bottom edge of skirt up a 1/4", than again press a second time but this time press up a 1/2". Stitch along the upper fold. Repeat with under skirt. 

3. The instructions call for each skirt to be gathered separate but this is the way I prefer doing mine. I place the outer skirt over the under skirt (with the underskirt right side facing the outer skirt's wrong side), matching up the side seams and raw edge and pin in place. I then run a gathering stitch to the top of the skirts at one time. I do the front as one "set" of gathering stitches and the back side of the skirt as another "set" of gathering stitches. (If you follow the pattern you do the same but with the outer skit and under skirt done separately.) 

4. Place the skirts with the outer skirt right side facing the bodice's right side, match the side seams, then adjust gathers to fit the skirt onto the bodice. Pin in place and stitch. Finish the seam then press the seam up towards the bodice. 

5. Top stitch the bottom of the waist band on the front of the dress, being sure that the inside seam is facing up towards the bodice. (Be sure that the skirt of the dress is out of the way of the stitching.) 

6. Very last sew your buttons onto the bodice where the markings are that you transferred from the pattern. If you have not already, bring the tabs forward to the front side of the skirt. This will give the outer skirt the beautiful scalloped look. Stitch the tabs in place. Then stitch the buttons unto the tabs as shown on the pattern. That is it for the girl's dress!! All Done! Now stand back and admire the beautiful dress you just created. 

I love the ties on this dress so much too! As lovely from the back as it is from the front. 

Be sure to come back tomorrow to sew the matching doll dress!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson three to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT,
Wednesday, March 2nd.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.


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