Monday, August 29, 2016

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #1

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 1

Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 
Today we will be modifying our pattern pieces (if need be) and cutting out our garments. 

1. First the pants/shorts. If you are sewing them as is from the pattern, have your pattern pieces cut out or traced off from the pattern in the size you need. If you are making the shorts modification we will need to adjust the pattern pieces on both the front and back pieces. For boys you will want the shorts longer, like board shorts style. (Well this style is cute on girls too!) For girls you will probably want them a shorter length. To get the length have your little one try on a pair of pants/shorts and measure the inseam for how far down you will want shorts fit. Take this measurement and add the 1/2" top seam allowance to it then add another 1 1/4" to the bottom for the hem. ( Example" child's inseam measurement 5"  + 1/2" top seam = 5  1/2". Add the hem to = 6  3/4" total). This total number will be your shorts leg length.  Now let me show you how to make this into the short pattern piece. 

2. I like to trace out any pieces I modify from an original pattern piece. This way I can mark all over it and retrace if I need too. For the boy shorts I draw a straight line at the top of the side pant vent using my quilting ruler, making sure to trace the line even from the very bottom hem of the pants.  Repeat with the back side of the pants pattern piece.

Now for a shorter length than the board shorts you will need to take your measurement from before and measure down from the crotch seam and mark. Use your quilting ruler to make the short bottom cut line even by using the original hem line as a guide. Repeat with the back pants piece. Now you have your short pattern pieces ready for cutting!
   
3. Cutting out the shorts/pant/skirt fabric.
 For the shorts cut out the following pieces of your fabric:
          2 front pieces
          2 back pieces
          1 front facing/1 interfacing piece
          4 front panels/2 interfacing pieces
If lining your short also cut out of the lining fabric
          2 front pieces
          2 back pieces


For the pants cut out the following pieces of your fabric:
          2 front pieces
          2 back pieces
          1 front facing on fold/1 interfacing piece on fold
          4 front panels/2 interfacing pieces
If lining your pants also cut out of the lining fabric
          2 front pieces
          2 back pieces


For the skirt cut out the following pieces of your fabric:
          1 front piece on fold
          1 back piece on fold
          1 front facing on fold/1 interfacing piece on fold
          4 front panels/2 interfacing pieces
If lining your skisrt also cut out of the lining fabric
          1 front piece on fold
          1 back piece on fold

4. Onto our shirts! For the sew along we are using a knit, (knit is what comes in your kit if you purchased one from us) but you can use a woven as well. If you are using a woven I recommend that you size one up from what your child measures on the pattern for ease of dressing. The pattern top seam allowance is a ½" so it is OK to cut out those notches. One side note about the top pattern, some do find the top length to run short, so please measure the top against your child to see if this will be a problem. I add 1½" to my children's tops so they get plenty of wear out them. 

5. Short sleeve modification:
Measure your child's arm with a shirt that you like the sleeve length. Add a ½" seam allowance to the top of the sleeve measurement. Now add an additional 1¼" seam allowance to this number. This will give your sleeve length. 

 
6. Take your sleeve pattern piece in hand and mark from the top of the sleeve down the measurement you just calculated. To make sure the sleeve hem is even across, place your quilt ruler at the bottom of your mark and use the ruler to even up the line at both shoulder lines. Draw a line straight across.


Make sure that your sleeve hem is long enough to sew the sleeve onto the shirt by taking the hem measurement and the new short sleeve line and subtracting the bottom hem and the seam allowance at the shoulder.


7. Cut only the bottom portion of the sleeve pattern piece off.


8. To be able to make a lovely hem we need to straighten out the side of the sleeve piece. This will allow us to make a nice even hem with no puckers while we sew it in place.

9. We are now ready to cut out our shirts. You will need the following pieces cut for both short and long sleeve versions:
          1 front cut on fold
          1 back cut on fold
          2 sleeves (either short or long sleeve)
          1 front facing cut on fold
          1 back facing cut on fold
          2 bottom facings cut on fold


We will leave off here for today. Tomorrow we will begin sewing our tops together. I will be using a serger for mine but you can use a sewing machine as well. Both work very well for this pattern.

Let us know if you have any questions for today's lesson. Also, be sure to add a photo of today's lessons in our Facebook sew along album. I will see you lovely ladies back here tomorrow as we start sewing our tops!

Happy cutting,
Sharon 

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson One to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, August 31st. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask. 


 

No comments:

Post a Comment