Friday, September 2, 2016

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #5

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 5


Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today we will be continuing our pants/shorts. Some of the methods I will be using are not in the pattern, such as the shorts mods, lining, and some of the finishing techniques, so if you have any questions along the way please don't hesitate to ask. Ready? Let's start! 

1. Place the pants/shorts back over the front with the right sides facings. Match up the second notch down from the top of the back pants/shorts to the top edge of the front pants/shorts. Pin in place all the way down until the bottom edge of the shorts or until the dot you transferred from the pattern pieces at the side vent. 

A. the pants 



B. the shorts

2. A. Stitch the side of the pants from the top edge of the front of the pants to the dot at the top of the side vent, be sure to lock your stitches at the dot. Repeat with opposite side.

B. Stitch the side of the short from the top edge of the front pants to the bottom raw edge. The lining and main fabric will be treated as one for the side seam. Repeat with opposite side.

3. A. Now take your pants/shorts in hand and open up the side seam at the front side panel.

B. Cut the seam only on the side front panel to the the stitching but not through the stitching, leaving the seam on the back side untouched. The photo below shows the seam cut.

This is what both seams look like, only the front seam will be cut into to allow for a nicely pressed open seam.

4. Press your side seam open, but have the front panel seam pressed towards the back of the pants/shorts. Don't worry about this raw edge on the cut, we are going to tidy this up. This tip I learned from a good friend Nicole, and I always use it for both the pants/shorts, and skirt on this pattern.

5. With the pants/shorts facing the wrong side out we are going to sew a bar-tack right over open seam where it was cut. (Through both the uncut and cut side of the seam for a nice uniform look from the outside.) Use either a bar-tack stitch or a narrow zig-zag stitch to sew your bar-tack in place.

This is what it will look like from the inside of the pants/shorts.

This is the outside view of the bar-tack. I love how this finished the raw edge and looks so nice from both the inside and outside. Repeat with opposite side seam.

6. A. Now we are going to make the casing for the elastic. Turn your pants/shorts inside out first. (Yes, I know that is not what is shown, but it is much easier to press it when it is wrong side out).

B. Press the back under a 1/2" then again 1" again. This is where the top notch is at on the back side of the pants/shorts. It will help you to measure the distance down for pressing.

 C. Stitch the fold in place.

7.  Measure and cut your elastic according to the patterns chart, then insert your elastic into the back casing.

8. Now stitch your elastic in place. I am going to show a little trick that I do for all my back only elastic shorts/skirts.  I move the inside of the elastic casing edge out of the way, (you can pin it if you would like) and then stitch the elastic in place right over the side seam, or "stitch in the ditch," on both sides.

9. A.  From the inside, tuck the elastic into the casing.

B. Then simply hand stitch the casing closed.

A nice view from the inside with no elastic showing.

and a nice view from the outside with no stitching lines.

We will leave off here for today and will come back Tuesday to finish our pants and shorts. 
Happy sewing,
Sharon 

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Five to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, September 7th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #4

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 4

Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today we will be starting our pants/shorts. Some of the methods I will be using are not in the pattern, such as the shorts mods, lining, and some of the finishing techniques so if you have any questions along the way please don't hesitate to ask. Ready? Let's start! 


1. Add the interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing and the front side panels. I always trim my interfacing a ½" to accommodate the
½" seam allowance however when I am working with lighter weight fabrics, I do not trim.. 

2. Transfer all your pattern markings onto the fabric pieces. The buttonhole, button placement onto the front side and the pivoting mark onto the wrong side side. I like to use the tailors chalk for the denim or dark fabrics.

3. Finish the front facings bottom edge, being careful not the trim any of the fabric away.

4. A. Place the front two panels with right sides facing; stitch the curve crotch area only. I like to stitch a second row right next to the first stitching to help re-enforce this area. Finish the seam allowance and press well.

   B. For the lined version repeat this same step with the lining as well. Trim your seam.

5. A. Add the facing to the right side of the pants/shorts front with the right sides facing; match up the notches and corners; pin in place. Stitch around with pivoting at both dots. Trim the seam, turn, and press well.

   B. For lined version, place the lining over the main front shorts with the wrong sides facing.  Pin in place around the top portion as shown below, repeat with step A above.

6. Top stitch around the open flap and top of the pants/shorts with a 1/8" seam.

7. Take the two front side panels and place them with the right sides facing with the two interfaced front side panels. Stitch around the top and curved portion, pivoting at the dot and leaving the side open. Trim the seam, turn, and press.

8. Top stitch the sewn edges of both side front panels.

9. Stitch your buttonholes now onto the front of the pants.

Back view...

10. Pin the front side panels in place, matching the notches on the side panels and front of the pants.

11. Baste the side panels in place with a 1/3" seam allowance.

I like to leave the front panels pinned to the front of the pants while I sew these next few steps.

Back view...

12.  A. Place your two back pants/shorts panels together and pin in place. Stitch the seam, then again stitch the seam a second time just a hair over from the first to help re-enforce the seam. Finish the raw edge and press the seam.

  B. If making the lined version repeat this step with the two lining back pants/short pieces.  Trim your seams and press.

13. If making the lined version only: Place your back pants/shorts panel over the lining back panels with the wrong sides facing, pin them around the top and sides only, baste in place.  I like to take the seams and pace them facing in opposite directions to help reduce the bulk in the this area. (see the next  two photos for this step.)

14. Finish the side seams only of both the front and back side of the pants/shorts.

Use a tapestry needle to weave your serger thread tail into the stitching to leave a nice finished edge.

This is the side view of the finished pants seam. I like to finish the edge of the top of the "L" shape as well when I serge the side seam. I do this by pulling the" L" shape straight with the side seam as I am serge the side seam.

This is where we are leaving today's lesson off, come back tomorrow as we continue to work on our pants and shorts. 


Let us know if you have any questions for today's lesson either here or in the Facebook group. Also be sure to add a photo of today's lesson in our Facebook sew along album. I will see you lovely ladies back here tomorrow as we continue on our pants/shorts!

Happy sewing,
Sharon 

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Four to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, September 6th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask. 

Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #3

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 3


Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today we will finish sewing our shirts. So let's get started! 


1. Press your sleeve hem up on both sleeves, short and long sleeve versions. I will be using only a long sleeve for the tutorial but both versions sew the same way. Pressing it now will help to hem it after the sleeve is all sewn.

2. If you are sewing the top in a woven, be sure to sew in the gathering stitches to help ease the sleeve. For this tutorial I used knit, so this step can be skipped as the knit will stretch into place nicely. Take your sleeve and place it the corresponding shoulder, matching up the notches, with right sides together.  Pin the sleeve in place, then stitch. If using a serger to sew your sleeve in, remember to sew it with the ½" seam and trim the seam as you go. Repeat with second sleeve. Press seam away from the shirt towards the sleeve.

3. Fold your shirt in half with the right sides together and place the sleeve and shirt right sides together, matching up the bottom sleeve seam. Take your under arm seam and place each seam in the opposite direction to help the seams to "lock" in place when sewn and to also help reduce the bulk when worn as well.

4. Pin the the sleeve and sides together and stitch. Press your seam towards the back side of the shirt. Repeat with opposite side.

5. Take your bottom facing pieces and place them right sides together and sew up the two short sides. Press the seam towards the back side.

6. Take your facing and turn it wrong side out, then slip in over the bottom of the shirt  with the shirt facing right side out. Match up the two side seams on the facing and the shirt, pin in place. Pin the rest of the facing in place all the way around then stitch in place along the bottom edge.

7. Turn your facing to the inside of the shirt, rolling your seam towards the inside so the seam line is not visible from the outside of the shirt. Press well then pin the facing in place. Stitch the facing in place in the same manner as your top facing.

8. Take your shirt, while still inside out, and refold the sleeve hem and give it another good press. Turn your sleeve right side out.

9. With your sleeve right side out stitch the hem in place. I use a regular ball point needle on mine but you can use a twin needle here as well. Repeat with second sleeve.

10. Cut your buttonholes open and sew your buttons on in the marked places that you transferred from the pattern piece.

Now we can admire our newly sewn shirts!!



Tomorrow we will begin the pants and shorts part of our lessons. We will take it over the course of three days. I will be going over how to sew the shorts modification and how to line them as well. I can't wait to see you back here tomorrow!



Happy sewing,
Sharon 

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Three to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Friday, September 2nd. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask. 



Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #2

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

** If you would like to see an image on our blog in a larger format, just click on it to enlarge.

Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

You can find the Oliver + S Sailboat pattern in the shop. Kits are available as well. Click on the links below:

Welcome to Day 2


Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

1. First, start by cutting a piece of interfacing into a " strip. I like to make mine wider when using a knit fabric for the top. Also, I like to cut the interfacing the length of the shoulder as well. Fuse the pieces onto the wrong side of both the back and front facing pieces with a hot iron.


2. Finish the bottom edges of all your top facing pieces and the top edge of your bottom facing pieces. I use my serger for these steps. If you are using your sewing machine, use a narrow zig-zag stitch to finish your edges. Be careful not to trim any of the fabric away from your pieces.

3. Take your front and back shirt bodice pieces and transfer your markings for buttonholes and buttons onto the right sides.

4. Take your front bodice and front facing pieces and place them together with the right sides facing. Pin at them shoulders and neck line only.

5. If using a sewing machine go ahead and sew the the shoulders and neck line in one step. If using a serger follow the next few steps to make nice pointed corners for turning.

a.) Serge the neckline only with a ½" seam. You will be trimming the seam as you sew.

b.) Next, sew the shoulders on both sides with leaving a length of serger thread tail. (Once again you will be trimming your seam as you sew.)

c.) Take a tapestry needle and thread the serger thread tail back through the top of your serger line, repeat with the second side.

6. Turn your facing to the wrong side of the bodice and turn your corners out well; press. If you are using a sewing machine be sure to trim and clip your seams before your turn. Pin the facing into place.

7. Follow the bottom of the facing and sew it into place all the way across the facing's bottom.

This is what the front view will look like. This is also fun to use a contrasting thread or even trim here. Repeat with steps 4-7 the back bodice and facing.

8. Now take your front bodice and stitch your buttonholes.If you have never sewn a buttonhole on knit I recommend that you practice first. If your machine has trouble with eating the knit you can place a piece of wax paper between your sewing machine and fabric to help stabilize while stitching. When done simply tear away the wax paper.

9. Now take your back bodice and place it with the right side facing up.  Then place your front bodice right side facing up, overlapping the back bodice at the shoulders with the front bodice on top. Match up the back bodice notch to the front bodice shoulder edge. Pin in place.

10. Baste the two pieces together with a 1/3" seam allowance. Repeat with the opposite shoulders.

We will leave off here for today.

Let us know if you have any questions for today's lesson either here or the Facebook group. Also, be sure to add a photo of today's lessons in our Facebook sew along album. I will see you lovely ladies back here tomorrow as we finish our tops!

Happy sewing,
Sharon 

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Two to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Thursday, September 1st. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.