Friday, September 2, 2016

Sew-Along #33 - Sailboat Outfit - Lesson #5

The Sailboat Outfit by Oliver+S

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Welcome to Day 5

Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson. Some things I will share/teach will not be in the pattern, but are some tricks and tips I have learned over the years from sewing this pattern. 

Today we will be continuing our pants/shorts. Some of the methods I will be using are not in the pattern, such as the shorts mods, lining, and some of the finishing techniques, so if you have any questions along the way please don't hesitate to ask. Ready? Let's start! 

1. Place the pants/shorts back over the front with the right sides facings. Match up the second notch down from the top of the back pants/shorts to the top edge of the front pants/shorts. Pin in place all the way down until the bottom edge of the shorts or until the dot you transferred from the pattern pieces at the side vent. 

A. the pants 

B. the shorts

2. A. Stitch the side of the pants from the top edge of the front of the pants to the dot at the top of the side vent, be sure to lock your stitches at the dot. Repeat with opposite side.

B. Stitch the side of the short from the top edge of the front pants to the bottom raw edge. The lining and main fabric will be treated as one for the side seam. Repeat with opposite side.

3. A. Now take your pants/shorts in hand and open up the side seam at the front side panel.

B. Cut the seam only on the side front panel to the the stitching but not through the stitching, leaving the seam on the back side untouched. The photo below shows the seam cut.

This is what both seams look like, only the front seam will be cut into to allow for a nicely pressed open seam.

4. Press your side seam open, but have the front panel seam pressed towards the back of the pants/shorts. Don't worry about this raw edge on the cut, we are going to tidy this up. This tip I learned from a good friend Nicole, and I always use it for both the pants/shorts, and skirt on this pattern.

5. With the pants/shorts facing the wrong side out we are going to sew a bar-tack right over open seam where it was cut. (Through both the uncut and cut side of the seam for a nice uniform look from the outside.) Use either a bar-tack stitch or a narrow zig-zag stitch to sew your bar-tack in place.

This is what it will look like from the inside of the pants/shorts.

This is the outside view of the bar-tack. I love how this finished the raw edge and looks so nice from both the inside and outside. Repeat with opposite side seam.

6. A. Now we are going to make the casing for the elastic. Turn your pants/shorts inside out first. (Yes, I know that is not what is shown, but it is much easier to press it when it is wrong side out).

B. Press the back under a 1/2" then again 1" again. This is where the top notch is at on the back side of the pants/shorts. It will help you to measure the distance down for pressing.

 C. Stitch the fold in place.

7.  Measure and cut your elastic according to the patterns chart, then insert your elastic into the back casing.

8. Now stitch your elastic in place. I am going to show a little trick that I do for all my back only elastic shorts/skirts.  I move the inside of the elastic casing edge out of the way, (you can pin it if you would like) and then stitch the elastic in place right over the side seam, or "stitch in the ditch," on both sides.

9. A.  From the inside, tuck the elastic into the casing.

B. Then simply hand stitch the casing closed.

A nice view from the inside with no elastic showing.

and a nice view from the outside with no stitching lines.

We will leave off here for today and will come back Tuesday to finish our pants and shorts. 
Happy sewing,

*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Five to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, September 7th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

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