The Playtime Dress/Tunic & Leggings by Oliver+S
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Before we begin with today's lesson be sure to read all of the patterns instructions. Today, and throughout the entire sew along, you will need your pattern in hand to go along with each lesson.
Welcome to Day 2
Today we will be sewing up the bodice and top stitching the mock collar.
*Note: The tunic/dress is sewn with a 1/2" seam allowance*
1. First, we will take our front facing piece and fuse on the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure that the rough side of the interfacing is facing the wrong side of the fabric. Press with warm hot dry iron to adhere the interfacing to the fabric.
2. In the same manner as the front facing piece, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the back two facing pieces.
3. Pin the facing back to the facing front with the right sides together at the shoulders. Sew with a 1/2" seam. I sewed mine with my serger only, and not my sewing machine first. If you do not have a serger, you can certainly can sew it with your sewing machine only. Be sure to sew it with a stretch stitch if you do. If you do sew it with your sewing machine be sure to also trim your seam to a 1/4" as well.
4. Press your seams towards the back. Unless you use your sewing machine, then press the seams open.
5. Now we need to finish the outer raw edges of the facing piece. I used my serger for this part as well. If you do use your serger, be sure not to trim any of the facing on this step. If you use your sewing machine, you can just do a narrow zig-zag stitch around the outer edge.
6. With both front and back bodice pieces, sew a basting stitch around the neck line with a 3/8" seam allowance to help the neck line from being stretched out. With the knit I like to use a long stitch length and take my time as not to stretch the knit out on this step.
7. Take your back bodice pieces and fuse a 3/4" wide piece of interfacing at the shoulders. This will add some stability to the shoulder seams for stitching and wear.
8. Pin your front and back bodices together at the shoulders with right sides facing. Sew in place then press the seams towards the back bodice. Unless you use your sewing machine here, then press the seams open.
9. Place your bodice laying on the table with the right facing up, place the facing onto the bodice with the right sides together, matching up the shoulder seams, pin in place.
10. Now we will sew our facing into the bodice. If your using your sewing machine just stitch as usual then trim your seam to a 1/4". If you are using your serger, like I did, here is a little different way of sewing it without worry about making a neat corner for turning. First serge the back straight edges only.
11. Next, serge the curved neckline. I then like to take a tapestry needle and tuck the serge thread tail into the top of the stitching on both back seam edges. Turn and press the bodice along the sewn edges.
12. Stitching the mock collar. This section is optional, so you can skip it if you would like to. For the back side there is only one template for the top stitching but on the front there are two. There is a peter pan style collar and a rounded collar. Pick which one you would like to use and trace both back and front template out onto your bodice with a fabric marker.
13. Carefully smooth out your bodice and facing underneath the bodice and pin to hold the facing in place as you stitch the collar.
14. Using a coordinating thread color, following the lines you just made. Slowly stitch your collar all the way around starting at one back bodice bottom and finishing at the other back bodice bottom.
This is what your mock collar stitching will look like when complete.
15. Take both sleeves and press the hem on each one. Press up a 1/2" then again 1". Do not stitch the sleeve hem in place just yet though.
16. If you are using knits for your tunic/dress you can skip the gathering stitch on the top of both sleeves. Take one sleeve (each sleeve is the same and it does not matter which one you sew to either side) and pin the center notch to the shoulder seam. Next pin the raw edge of the sleeve all the way around the arm opening. Stitch or serge in place. Remember if you are using your sewing machine be sure to trim your seam allowance.
17. Press the seam towards the sleeve, repeat with second sleeve.
18. Take your bodice and fold it with the right sides together and pin the sleeve and bodice together, matching the sleeve seam. Stitch or serge together, then press your seam. Repeat with second side.
19. We are now going to stitch our sleeve hem. I like to first repress the hem before I stitch it.
20. I then turn the sleeve right side out and stitch the hem from the right side with the wrong side under my presser foot.
21. Repeat with the second sleeve.
22. It's time to add the buttonholes to your back bodice. After you stitch the buttonholes, fold the back bodice pieces so that they over lap and the center notches are matched up together. Baste in place using a 3/8" seam.
This is where we will leave off for today. See you tomorrow where we will finish sewing our tunic/dress.
*If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Two to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, January 26th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.